Canning Stock Route – Wiluna to Windich Springs
It’s 4.00pm by the time we leave the Aboriginal Dreamtime Art Gallery next to the visitors centre in Wiluna and follow the sign north for the Canning Stock Route. The well-maintained Wiluna North Road forms the first 31km of the Stock Route but track maintenance will be scarce or non-existent after that. Tonight we are only going 10km up the road and then taking a 10km detour to North Pool to stay the night. The road is wide and in good condition apart from a short section of corrugations on the North Pool Road and we reach the lovely tree lined billabong well before dark. I had been concerned it would be busy with other campers but there is nobody else around and it looks delightful so it is an easy decision to stay two nights.
Two nights stretch to three and time passes very easily. Paul is hard at work on his backlog of photographs from his time in the south west and I spend my time taking walks, writing and even trying, very poorly, to do some drawing. Open fires to cook on and later to sit by while watching the night sky add to our enjoyment. Just a pity it isn’t a little warmer but we’ll have to get further north for that. This is the type of place we could happily spend a week or two but with such a long distance ahead of us we know we can’t linger longer.
We leave North Pool at 9.30 am on the fourth day of our journey and we have 10km to rejoin the Wiluna North road and when we reach it we are only 10km advanced from town. Just as well we aren’t in a hurry. The remaining 21km on the Wiluna North Road is the same high standard gravel road. As soon as we make the turn towards Well 2 and Halls Creek we know we are where we belong, on a dusty track rather than a road.
At this southern end of the track we are in station country, broad and flat with the odd range of low rocky hills. The track certainly isn’t boring though with numerous changes to keep us concentrating. There are rocky sections which need to be crossed slowly and carefully to make sure tyres and suspension are looked after, washed away ruts to be straddled or detoured around and sections of corrugations, although thankfully not the bone jarring and car breaking type. Sometimes the track crosses open country and other times it weaves through the low bushes. The twists and turns over such flat country make me wonder why such a tortuous route was followed, perhaps they didn’t want to take out a single stumpy tree or perhaps they were just following a rambling steer. It’s not a hard drive but neither is it a fast one. Often our speed is 15kph although occasional flat stretches can see it rise to a giddy 20 or 25kph.
We passed a turn to Well 1 just after we left Wiluna and Well 2 is only 2km after we leave the Wiluna North Road. A brief stop for photos and to read the information sign is made before we continue. We started hearing radio traffic from a group just ahead of us before we reached Well 2 and shortly after our stop for a morning cuppa we catch up with two walkers. They are part of a larger group of five who are walking the Stock Route in order to raise awareness of suicide prevention. They have a support crew travelling in three vehicles. We chat with the two women for a while and not far up the track we catch up with the rest of the group and hear more about their trip and the cause. Some of the group have completed a variety of other challenges in the same cause.
Lunch is at Well 2A, the Granites, and we make our overnight stop at Well 3 after covering the grand distance of 107 km for the day. We had planned to fill our water containers with washing water from the restored well but the smell and look of the water is definitely off so we’ll wait until a better source of water is available. The camping area doesn’t look promising either, resembling a large dust bowl with a steady wind and millions of flies. Instead we drive a short distance up the track and set our camp amongst some low trees. They help with the wind but do nothing to decrease the number of flies so we hide inside, it’s great to have a fly proof area in these conditions.
Next morning the track leads us due east. According to our map we should be heading north east and we wonder if we’ve missed a turn but recent tyre tracks encourage us to keep following the track we are on. Before long we are heading in the right direction but about three km east of where we thought we should be. Several dry and rocky creek crossings later we meet up with the original track, it was apparently re-routed because of washouts. Lesson learnt; you can’t always rely on maps and GPS.
Radio banter lets us know two vehicles are approaching us and soon we’re stopped on the side of the road swapping tales and sharing some laughs with Julie and Carter. They have come from the north and can provide some information about good spots to stop as we go. Carter was working as a lifeguard at Prevelley Beach when Paul was there a couple of months ago and recognised Paul and his truck. He travels when he can in between jobs. Julie lives in Queensland when she can’t be on the road travelling in her 4WD camper “Mudda Trucker”. She is joined at times by her husband, who is hard at work in Brisbane. She was delighted to meet another female driving her own vehicle in these remote areas, we are few and far between. It’s close to an hour before we are mobile and heading north again.
Well 3A is the next well we pass and soon after we arrive at Windich Springs. As with many other places along the Canning Stock Route, this was an important meeting place for Aborigines long before Canning asked for their help to find a route for the northern cattlemen to walk their stock south to the rail head at Wiluna. It certainly isn’t hard to see why this was such an important place. The camping area is separated from the springs which are in a fenced off area and a short walk reveals a lovely tree lined billabong. The white trunks of the gum trees line each side and bright green reeds provide a strong contrast to the tannin coloured water. It’s early and we’ve only covered 70km today, partly because of the long chat with Julie and Carter, but this is too nice a place to pass by so we set up camp for the night.
A short walk supplies us with firewood and we cook butterflied peri peri chicken and roast vegetables on the fire. We settle down after dinner to enjoy the moderate temperatures and look forward to some star gazing. A few drops of rain get us scrambling to get everything under cover and before long we’re inside sheltering from the now heavier rain. Hopefully it will pass soon and this country is so dry it should just settle the dust tomorrow.