India Memories, Part Six.

12. Travelling in India

One of the ways we like to get a feel for a place is to travel through the country which is also a good way to chat with the local people. We wanted to mix up how we moved around and sample as many different modes of travel as possible.

There is a very good train system in India, with a very extensive and heavily used rail network. The on line booking system looked simple but proved to be far more complicated than it looked and we had to rely on guest-house managers or travel agents to help with arrangements or we visited the railway station a couple of days before our travel to book our tickets. We travelled in both air-conditioned and non air-conditioned trains … no guesses for which was our preference. While didn’t sample the cheapest of the classes we found the sleeper carriages with either two or three levels of bunk beds were reasonably good to sleep on, well sort of, and during the day they converted into seats so we could watch the country side through the grubby windows. 

If trains didn’t run between our stops we could generally find a private bus company which offered coaches with reserved seats and usually some air-conditioning. The one time when this wasn’t possible we spent five very hot and crowded hours on a non air-conditioned government bus trip travelling between Mount Abu and Jodphur. We held our seats for the trip but as we moved from one small town to the next the numbers on the bus varied greatly from most passengers having seats to probably twice as many crammed in as there were seats available.

On a couple of occasions there were no convenient trains or buses and rather than make a huge detour or catch a train in the middle of the night we simply hired a car and driver. More expensive but far, far cheaper than it would be in Australia and far more convenient and comfortable.

Within cities we of course walked when distances were not too great but otherwise we would catch auto-rickshaws (much like a tuk-tuk in Southeast Asia) for shorter distances or taxis or Uber for trips to and from airports or further afield.

Our water-based trips included sunrise and sunset boat trips on the Ganges in Varanasi….

and on Dal Lake in Kashmir we travelled in ‘shikaras’, a gondola-like boat.

We avoided a few of the ‘touristy’ modes of travel including elephant rides, horse drawn carriages and camel rides.

India is a large country and on several occasions overland travel would have taken far too long so we took advantage of reasonably cheap internal flights. There are quite a few carriers so competition on most routes is strong and fares cheap. The only disadvantage was the need to arrive at the airport two to three hours ahead of the flight but at least we could get cheap food while we were waiting.

Without a doubt the best travel experiences we had was flying from Delhi to Leh, the capital of the state of Ladakh in the far north of India and then taking several road trips within the state. The road to Leh from Manali in the south is only open for three months of the year and we were too early to make that trip so the plane was the only option left to us and it was fantastic. The views as we crossed the snow-clad Himalayas were absolutely sublime and the views of the broad, brown Indus Valley as we approached the airport were magnificent.

Once in Leh we took a couple of days to adjust to the altitude. Leh is over 3,500 metres (more than 11,500 feet) above sea level so altitude sickness is a definite factor. Luckily, apart from some mild effects including headaches and dizziness shortly after we arrived, we did not suffer significantly but rest and lots of water are important for the first day or so. While we were waiting to adjust we had time to take in the scenery including the snow capped mountains all around and the well laid out town preparing for the upcoming tourist season.

As there are limited buses and we wanted to be able to leave the main roads, visit the numerous Buddhist monasteries and other sites as well as stop for photos along the way, we arranged for a car and driver to take us on a series of road trips with days of rest between the trips, our ‘Leh’ days. Our roads took us through magnificent valleys with towering mountains on either side and over incredibly high snow clad mountain passes to the neighbouring valleys.

On these rest days we explored the town, browsed in the shops, sampled the restaurants, and rested after the short walks. Lots of hills and steps and not as much oxygen as we are used to taxed the lungs and provided good workouts.

India Memories, Part Five.

Western Rajasthan – Jodhpur and Jaisalmer

10. Magnificent Fort and Museum

Sprawled across the ridge above the blue city of Jodhpur, the mighty Merangarh Fort imposes itself upon the city from almost every tangled street or alley. We have a great view from the rooftop of our guest house and in the early morning our view includes people sleeping on their flat roof tops to escape the stifling heat and watching an early riser completing her morning exercises.

The fort appears to grow out of the basalt rock it was chiselled from and its 10 kilometre long wall includes battlements up to 36 metres high. We try to beat the heat by climbing the side of the hill as early as possible. Unfortunately we can’t enter even the outer walls until the official opening time so we have plenty of time to admire the fort towering above us before we can escape to the shade created by the thick walls. There are several sharp turns along the entrance route, obviously designed to slow attackers and provide plenty of opportunities for defence.

While entrance to the fort is free there is an entry fee for admittance to the fort museum and it includes an audio guide which helps bring alive the history of the place and tells stories about the people who inhabited it. Splendidly outfitted guards direct us through the rooms adorned with art works, weapons and household items as well as rooms filled with mirrors and luxurious fittings.

It is the buildings themselves though which provide the finest details of the workmanship with stone-lattice work so finely carved that it often looks more like sandalwood than sandstone.

The city sprawls below the fort and many of the buildings in the old city are painted Brahmin-blue. The colour used to be restricted to those of the Brahmin caste but can be used by anybody now. It reputedly helps deter insects. After several hours of wandering through the fort we descend to the city, the descent is much easier than the climb up, in search of a good cup of coffee.

We find it in a pleasant coffee shop beside a magnificent step well. unusually, the water is quite clear and consequently it is popular with the young lads for swimming and even supports a decent number of fish.

11. Living Fort Experience

Surrounded by desert in the far west of Rajasthan, not far from the border with Pakistan, the golden fort of Jaisalmer rises from the sandy plains. Unlike most other forts, Jaisalmer is a living urban centre with about 3,000 people living within its walls along with a palace, temples, numerous shops and other businesses. In the cooler season it attracts plenty of tourists who come to visit the city and to ride camels into the desert. In the middle of summer we see very few other tourists, in fact once the one other western couple, who caught the same train with us from Jodphur, depart to find their hotel we see no other tourists at all.

We stayed in a small luxury hotel within the walls of the fort which offered cheap rates for the off season. We had booked a standard room but the manager offered us our choice of rooms and we upgrade to an enchanting room which has a window and window seat built into the side of the fort. Up one level of stairs is an open area with fantastic views across the city and along the walls and we enjoy our breakfasts and evening sundowners there as well as a light dinner on two evenings. Its far too hot during the day but it is a wonderful place to watch the sunset and to enjoy a meal.

We had thought of taking a camel ride in the desert one afternoon and possibly camping out overnight but the 40 degree plus heat lingers well into the night so we spend our time relaxing in our air-conditioned room or exploring the fort and the surrounding old city in the early morning and evening. 99 bastions encircle the fort and there are four massive gates to pass through on the zig-zagging route to the upper section. The Fort Palace is elegant and well worth the hour or two it takes to explore.

The old city surrounding the fort has narrow winding streets and as well as the colourful displays of fruit and vegetables, fabrics and embroideries, there are some magnificent havelis. Some of these are enjoying a new lease of life being renovated for use as luxury apartments. Its good to know the old skills of hand-carving of sandstone into the intricate filigree patterns is continuing.


India Memories, Part Four.

Southern Rajasthan – Udaipur and Mount Abu

8. Most Romantic City.

From Bundi we travelled south to Udaipur. The city sits beside the picturesque Lake Pichola with the wooded Arayalli Hills stretching away in every direction. The old town has countless narrow and crooked streets with beautiful old havelis or hotels, ancient bazaars and a grand City Palace which is the largest in Rajasthan.

While we loved wandering up and down the streets and exploring everything we came across from the palace to the spice market, our favourite spot was sitting in the restaurant of a grand old haveli, which is now an upmarket hotel, as the day drew to an end and the sun set behind the hills opposite. Our view included the shimmering lake, a grand palace on an island in front of us, the illuminated City Palace behind us and numerous other buildings displaying the Rajput architecture around us and on the opposite shore. A crisp beer with complimentary pappadums helped ease the heat out of the day.

Mornings were just as beautiful by the lake side.

The City Palace is a massive 244m long and is a conglomeration of structures including 11 smaller palaces all topped by balconies, towers and cupolas towering over the lake. The main part is open as the City Palace Museum, with rooms extravagantly decorated with mirrors, tiles and paintings, and housing a large and varied collection of artefacts. Liveried guards usher you through a defined route to ensure you visit all of the rooms and courtyards.  

As usual we thoroughly enjoyed just wandering through the streets past colourful shop displays and friendly people until we eventually made our way to the spice market.

And then of course it was back to our favourite hotel for sunset drinks and this time we stayed for dinner as well.

9. Colourful Rural Festival.

On the plane trip from Bengaluru to Goa the airline magazine listed the Mount Abu Summer Festival in the upcoming events. The dates were during our time in Rajasthan so we decided to include it in our itinerary. Mount Abu is Rajasthan’s only hill station and is not far from the border with Gujarat, the state just south of Rajasthan. As an added bonus for us the temperatures there are considerably cooler than the scorching temperatures in most of Rajasthan.

The festival is a celebration of tribal life and culture and is attended by many people from small communities dressed in traditional costumes as well as tourists from Indian cities and towns who come to enjoy the festival and the cooler weather.

Tribal costumes were mainly worn by the women and there were marked differences in garments between tribes. 

The guys scrubbed up well and were quite happy to be in our photos.

And some of the turbans were particularly impressive.

We took plenty of photos but there were probably just as many taken of us. So many people wanted to take selfies with us and it seemed unreasonable to say no but it sure became tiresome for people like us who normally try to avoid being in photos. When we wanted a break we found an upstairs bar where we could rest with a cool drink and avoid the selfies and photos taken of us, well most of them anyway.

India Memories, Part Three.

Bundi

After the grandeur of the city of Jaipur and the surrounding forts our next stop was the far more humble town of Bundi which is a five hour bus trip to the south.

6. Friendliest Town

Bundi attracts far fewer tourists than anywhere else we visited, especially during the summer season. Possibly for this reason, or just because it is a small rural town, the welcome we received from the locals was invariably warm and friendly. We stayed in a small guest house, really a private home with a couple of rooms made available for guests and we were the only visitors. In fact we saw only one other western couple during our time in Bundi. There are a few attractions in town which we visited including a crumbling palace on the hillside above the town which was described by Rudyard Kipling as ‘the work of goblins rather than of men’. It provided great views over the town and although large sections of the palace are closed up and left to the bats. The rooms that are open hold a series of fabulous, although fading turquoise-and-gold murals that are the palace’s chief treasure.

Bundi has a number of step wells, most having very little water due to declining ground water levels and unfortunately plenty of rubbish, but one worth visiting is the Queen’s step well which is 46m deep. We also visited a pretty lake 2 km north of town which has a small summer palace where Rudyard Kipling once stayed and wrote part of Kim.

The most enjoyable part of our stay however was just wandering around the streets and narrow alleys in the old town. Many of the buildings are painted Brahmin-blue and we saw many old temples. Numerous cows are to be seen scattered through the streets and lanes enjoying their privileged status. We received many welcoming smiles and greetings and often people were keen to have a chat and share a chai. Children were particularly keen to have their photos taken and to then see themselves on the screen.

7. Most authentic Indian meal

The one western couple we saw while we were in Bundi had already spent a week in the town and gave us some tips on places to visit. They highly recommended a small restaurant near the fort, Jays cafe. We called into Jays mid-morning after several hours exploring the fort. It was too hot to eat but we needed a cool drink. The cafe is run by Jay and his sister Rinku, both in their early 20’s, with their Mum working in the kitchen with Rinku. They welcomed us warmly and ushered us up some steep stairs, past their mother who was sitting in the kitchen and nodded to us as we went by. The sitting area at the top of the house was sheltered and caught a little breeze which was helped along by an air cooler directed toward us. We were brought a traditional lassi each which included cardamom pods, saffron and other unidentified flavours, yum, our new favourite. We chatted with Jay and Rinku while we were enjoying our drink and promised to come back in the evening for a thali, a set meal which includes a number of dishes on a round platter. When we tried to pay our bill for our lassi we were told to wait and it would be included in the evening account.

We returned late afternoon and although they are not licenced they had bought and cooled some beers which we had requested and we enjoyed them with some pappadams before the feast began. When we were ready for our meal dish after dish came out to the table. If we finished more than half of a dish it was replenished until finally we had to ask them to stop. We were served a wide variety of vegetarian dishes and they were all absolutely delightful with everything very fresh and cooked especially for us. We were so busy enjoying the food we didn’t take any photos but finally remembered to take one at the end with Rinku.


India Memories, Part Two

Jaipur

Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

After our time in Southern India we farewelled Sean and Vandana and the other guests in Goa and took a plane back to the north of India to the state of Rajasthan, the Land of the Kings – a realm of maharajas, majestic forts and lavish palaces. By now we were in the Indian summer period and we knew the temperatures throughout the state would be very high, especially in the desert regions in the east, but there was lots to see so whenever possible we took advantage of accommodation with air-conditioned rooms and swimming pools and headed out to sightsee in the mornings and late afternoons with siestas in the middle of the day. Our first destination in Rajasthan was the capital, Jaipur. Our guest house there ticked every requirement, in fact it was probably the nicest of our whole time in India.

The image at the top of this post is Hawa Mahal (the Wind Palace) which was constructed so that the Maharanis could watch the parade of returning armies from positions behind the intricately carved screens.

4. Grandest city and most colourful markets.

The Old City (often referred to as the Pink City) is partially encircled by a grand wall punctuated at intervals by large gateways. Wide avenues divide the city into neat rectangles, each specialising in certain crafts and there are small and large bazaars and markets scattered throughout, both along the avenues and down the maze of narrow alleys. It would take days to explore the city properly. The wall and all the buildings lining the broad avenues are built of pink sandstone with intricate carvings adorning many of the grand buildings.

We love markets and visit them any opportunity we find even if we have no intention of buying anything. We wandered through local vegetable markets down side streets in the old pink city and admired the freshness and colour of the produce.

The best colour of all though was to be found at the early morning wholesale flower market.

5. A Tale of Two Forts

There are three forts surrounding Jaipur and we visited two of these. Amber Fort is honey-hued and is situated in the rocky hills 11 km north of Jaipur. It is huge and sprawls along a ridge with a grand entry wide enough for elephants. It is built of pale yellow and pink sandstone and white marble with four sections, each with a large courtyard.

The entry is into the Main Courtyard where returning armies would display their war booty to the populace. The second courtyard contains the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience), which has a double row of columns, each topped by a capital in the shape of an elephant, and latticed galleries above. The maharaja’s apartments are located around the third courtyard, entered through the fabulous Ganesh Pol, decorated with beautiful frescoed arches. The Jai Mandir (Hall of Victory) is noted for its inlaid panels and multi-mirrored ceiling. Opposite the Jai Mandir is the Sukh Niwas (Hall of Pleasure). The zenana (secluded women’s quarters) surrounds the fourth courtyard. The rooms were designed so that the maharaja could embark on his nocturnal visits to his wives’ and concubines’ respective chambers without the others knowing, as the chambers are independent but open onto a common corridor.

The second fort we visited was Nahargarh, (Tiger Fort). It overlooks the city from the end of a ridge but the direct route includes walking up a steep winding 2km path so we opted to drive via a circuitous route which commenced from the Amber Fort area. The views from Nahargarh fort are glorious and while not as grand as the Amber Fort there are some great design features and ornamentation.

India Memories, Part One.

Varanasi, Agra, Bengaluru

The Happy Couple, Sean and Vandana

For our first taste of India we spent two months there, nowhere near enough time to thoroughly explore the country but enough to provide us with plenty of fabulous experiences and sights and to encourage us to return at another time to explore further. We have tried to put together our top ten highlights but inevitably we went way past that mark. Following are some of our favourites memories from our visit in the order of our travel. Part One covers the beginning of our trip from our first destinations in Varanasi and Agra and then our visit to southern India to attend a very special wedding.

1. Most spiritual experience.

It’s no wonder we found our best spiritual experience in Varanasi, which is after all known as India’s holiest city. Spirituality pervades the whole area of the old town where we stayed and wandered around but the events which inspired us the most were attending the Ganga Aarti (river ceremony on the Ganges) which is conducted every evening at Dashawamedh Ghat, amongst others, and taking a dawn boat trip along the Ganges River.

2. Most awesome monument.

Ok we’ve all seen innumerable photos and it gets crowded with tourists but there is no going past the beauty and amazing accomplishment of the Taj Mahal. The symmetry, the fine detail, the beautiful materials used and the story behind the construction all contribute to create the whole experience. Along the river the Agra Fort was also very impressive and we would recommend it as well.

3. The Best of our Best in India

The primary reason we travelled to India was to attend the wedding of Paul’s son Sean to Vandana which was held in the southern Indian city of Bengaluru (Bangalore). It was great to be present at  the joyful affair of the union of two such very special people vowing to spend their lives together and it was also fabulous to get an insight into the different traditions and rituals of an Indian wedding. 

Indian weddings follow a different time-table to those we are used to. Different parts of the wedding involving different rituals and traditions take place over several days and the wedding ceremony itself is preceded by a reception where guests have the opportunity to greet the couple and to give them their best wishes, a meal is served and there is dancing. After a break the actual ceremony then commenced at 2.00am, the time found to be most auspicious for Vandana and Sean based on their dates of birth. The ceremony is conducted under a ‘mandap’, a temporary structure constructed for the purpose and a fire burns in the centre of the mandap. The couple circle the fire seven times with their clothing tied together and the bride offers rice to the fire on each circuit. Other rituals and traditions which take place before the ceremony include the adornment of the bride’s hands and feet with henna, the exchange of floral garlands between the couple, and the placing of a necklace of black and gold beads on the bride by the groom.

Following the wedding we spent a few days in Goa with the bride and groom and several other guests who had travelled from overseas to attend the wedding.

Afterwards we then flew back to northern India to continue our new adventure.

“The Sun and the Moon Shed Tears from Their Eyes”

Poet Rabindranath Tagore described the Taj Mahal as ‘a teardrop on the cheek of eternity’; Rudyard Kipling as ‘the embodiment of all things pure’; while its creator, Emperor Shah Jahan, said it made ‘the sun and the moon shed tears from their eyes’. I’m sure all of us have seen countless photos of it but it is still an amazing place to visit and the opportunity to see it brought us to Agra. As well as the Taj, the Mughal empire left behind a very impressive fort and several other mausoleums and tombs.

To reach here we caught an overnight train from Varanasi.. It was due to leave at 5.20pm and arrive in Agra at 6.20am so we were concerned we would be arriving far to early to check into our hotel so we investigated the nearest place we could get a good coffee and fill in some time. India Rail made sure that wasn’t a problem though, the train was about three hours late leaving and then took an extra couple of hours on the journey so by the time we arrived and got a tuk tuk to our hotel it was time to check in and immediately head out for lunch … and coffee!

We had a distant and partly obstructed view of the Taj from the train and because we stayed in the Taj Ganj area right next to the Taj we caught glimpses of the top of the Taj from the streets around the area but our first good view of it was from a rooftop restaurant just before sunset. Fantastic outlook, pleasant sitting area with potted plants all around, interesting and friendly people at the surrounding tables to chat with, the sound of the call to prayers as the sun set, tasty food – pretty perfect overall so we lashed out and had our first beers since we arrived in India to mark the occasion. Even the monkey who came to see if there was any food he could steal kept his distance and didn’t bother us.

The next morning we left the hotel just after 5.00am so we could have a coffee and still be inside in time to catch the early light. Once through the ticket gate we walked through the forecourt to a very ornate 30m high red sandstone gateway. 

 After passing through the gate we entered the ornamental garden with the Taj on a raised marble platform at the other end of watercourse and we stayed there taking the classic photos until after the sun had risen above the layer of smog.


We made our way through the gardens toward the Taj, stopping for more photos looking back toward the gateway.

The central Taj structure is made of semi-translucent white marble, carved with flowers and inlaid with thousands of semi-precious stones in beautiful patterns. 40m-high white minarets grace each corner of the platform. 

The four identical faces of the Taj feature impressive vaulted arches embellished with pietra dura scroll-work and quotations from the Quran in a style of calligraphy using inlaid jasper. The whole structure is topped off by four small domes surrounding the famous bulbous central dome. 

Inside the Mausoleum are two elaborate false tombs surrounded by an exquisite perforated marble screen inlaid with dozens of different types of semiprecious stones. The real tombs are in a locked basement room below the main chamber and cannot be viewed.  The marble screen was carved from a single piece of marble and more finely cut marble screens admit light into the chamber. No photography is allowed inside the mausoleum.

The red-sand-stone mosque to the west is an important gathering place for Agra’s Muslims. The building, and the interiors, are intricately decorated.

It was also a great place for photos and a couple of photographers posed models in the archway with the Taj providing a magnificent backdrop. 

After several hours being wowed by our visit to this amazing place we were weary, hot and hungry so found a place to eat and retreated to the air-conditioning to recover. 

Later we took a walk through the side streets and lanes. We only had to walk a very short distance and we changed worlds. Instead of restaurants and travel agents the streets were lined with stalls selling homewares or hardware or bolts of beautiful materials. Fruit and vegetable vendors pushed the carts to convenient locations and kept a wary eye out for monkeys waiting to grab a mango from their display. A goat peered out from an upstairs window and a cow rested by the side of the road. Street food was hot and enticing and although we had recently eaten we had to sample a snack along the way, delicious.

We had another early start next morning and left the hotel at 5.30 am and took a tuk tuk to the Agra Fort. The fort was primarily built as a military structure beginning in 1565 but it was later transformed into a palace. Now a large part of the huge structure is used by the military but there was still plenty of palatial marble and red sandstone buildings to wander through with well laid out courtyards and reception areas between them. The walls are twenty metres high and 2.5km in circumference. One side ran by the river and the others were protected by a crocodile infested moat.

As soon as we arrived we hurried to the eastern side of the fort so we could watch the sun rise behind the Taj Mahal. Even though it was after the actual time of sunrise, the smog hid the sun and while we were waiting for the sun to make its appearance we watched a nesting Black Kite and its chick and some lovely tree parrots. 

 The sun stayed hidden behind the low layer of clouds and smog so we enjoyed the view across the fields and the river before beginning our exploration of the buildings. 


Khas Mahal is the most beautiful building in the fort and was built by Shah Jahan during 1631-1640 AD. There are open terraces and a hall, flanked by a pavilion on either side. The structure is erected on an elevated platform paved with marble. The palace included curtain walls, elegant tanks, fountains and a waterfall surrounded by living apartments with courts and verandahs.

The interiors of the palace are adorned with gold work, mural paintings, ornamental designs and floral designs. 

The projecting tower to the east of the Khas Mahal is known as the Octagonal Tower (Musamman Burj). The tower is open at five sides and makes an excellent balcony for a view of the riverside and the Taj Mahal. It was originally made of red sandstone and used by emperors Akbar and Jahangir. Shah Jahan got it changed to white marble. 

Next to Khas Mahal is Jehangir’s Palace, this is made of red sand-stone. Although some of the interiors are not maintained the exteriors have delicate carvings and inlaid white stones.

Two courtyards are surrounded by terraces in front of numerous smaller rooms.

Diwan-i-Am, (Hall of Public Audiences) was used for domestic government business. Beyond it, in an area not open to the public, is Moti Masjid, the Pearl Mosque. 

It may not be as famous but Agra Fort is also a great monument and we easily spent several hours wandering around and would have been happy to spend longer except for the heat.

Now it Is onward to Bengaluru, not to see any of India’s amazing temples or forts, but to experience a different side of India, an Indian wedding.

The Holy City of Varanasi

Devotion

After five days in Varanasi we are waiting at the train station to catch the overnight train to Agra. Its running a couple of hours late so there’s an opportunity to reflect on our time in Varanasi and for a little writing in the station and during the train trip.

Varanasi was a very good choice for our introduction to India and it threw us right into the heart and soul of India. Varanasi is India’s holiest city, famed for its cremation ghats and vibrant ceremonies along the Ganges River. We stayed in the heart of the old city just a few buildings back from the river and with two Hindu temples in the same laneway. As well as having easy access to the river and the laneways we could also hear the goings on down by the river, on the river and at the nearby temples.

Easy access to the river comes with the proviso that you are ready for the steps, lots of them. Ghats are steps after all, either like these steps along the river or steps of hills in mountain ranges. After climbing up and down the steps to the river numerous times each day and then tackling the steep steps up to our room on the fourth floor it felt like were tackling the mountains. Hopefully we are getting fitter and fitter. In the wet season the river rises almost to the top of the steps but at this time of the year it is easy to walk right along the banks taking in the sights as we go or to wander through the laneways absorbing their sights, sounds and smells.

Early mornings are generally the most peaceful time with a calm and mystic feeling and mellow light. Paul was up and about with his camera before sun rise every morning of our stay. We took two sunrise boat trips and at other times he wandered down the steps and along the river finding plenty to capture his attention.

We had organised a boat and boatman with Sanjeey, the manager of our guesthouse and we met our boatman at the base of the Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi’s liveliest and most colourful ghat. Our boatman weaved out past the other boats and we headed north toward Manikarnika Ghat. Shortly after we began the sun showed  faintly as it rose through the smog layer and gradually brightened as it rose and reflected in the calm river waters before lighting up the buildings on the shore. Behind the buildings the full moon was sinking toward the horizon. The relative cool of the morning was about to change.

Along the way we passed palaces and mansions which were built by rajahs and other wealthy families but most are in serious disrepair with just a few now taken over by hotels which are in a good state. 


Huge piles of wood surround Manikarnika Ghat, the main cremation ghat. Varanasi is a particularly auspicious place to die, since expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of rebirth). People approaching death are brought to Varanasi by their relatives and after their death they are wrapped in cloths and carried to one of the cremation ghats where they are doused in the river and then completely incinerated on a carefully stacked pile of wood. Relatives attend the cremation and while it is permissible for foreigners to observe it is strictly forbidden for photos to be taken during the ceremonies.

Past Manikarnika we see a ruined temple sliding into the river and more pilgrims who have come to bathe in the river or to perform puja, (prayers) to the rising sun.

When I say the mornings were peaceful I need to exclude the Sunday morning. All Saturday night music had been playing, at first it was drums, sitars and voices which was great but later there was intermittent techno music which continued all night. In the morning when we took our second sunrise boat trip we found the source of the ‘music’. As well as numerous other boats carrying passengers, far more than on our first sunrise boat trip, there were several large boats cruising up and down and carrying banks of enormous speakers which were deafening. The views were still good but unfortunately the atmosphere was severely compromised. It must have been an auspicious weekend for weddings though, we saw several wedding groups including one couple preparing to bathe their feet in the holy water of the river.

During the day our time was divided between wandering along the river bank and through the laneways and retreating to our air-conditioned room to escape the heat. On a long walk south one morning we made our way through the laneways checking out the shops lining the sides. Some sold silver jewellery, others beautiful saris and shawls and others had clothes designed and sized to fit westerners. The lanes are far too narrow for cars or tuk tuks but motor bikes sped through them with their horns blaring to warn pedestrians to move to the side. Cows also wander through and everyone gives way to them and steps around the messes they leave behind. Food scraps are left in the lanes to feed them.

We made our way down to the river at Harischandra Ghat, another cremation ghat and then further along to Assi Ghat which is one of the biggest and most important ghats. In the evening the large area is filled with entertainers and people but in the heat of late morning it is almost deserted. We made our way back along the river in the midday heat enjoying the views as we walked but feeling the 42 degree heat. After lunch in one of the restaurants near our hotel we were very glad to spend the afternoon in the cool. 

As well as our sunrise boat trips we took a sunset trip. It also left from Dashawamedh Ghat and crowds were beginning to form as we headed south.  It was far more comfortable to be rowed in the relatively cool evening than to walk in the heat of the day.

After just forty minutes we returned to Dashashwamedh Ghat as the evening Ganga Aarti (river ceremony) was about to commence. The place was filled with crowds, both on the steps and in boats packed tightly in the front of the stages. Our boatman deftly manoeuvred us into a good position to see the ceremonies which included puja (prayers), fire, chanting and dance. 

The next evening we returned to watch the ceremonies from the land and managed to get a good position on the side of the performers. Once again there were crowds gathered to join in the ceremony.

Flower sellers prepared offerings to be bought by worshippers so they could float them in the holy river in memory of their families and several times people moved through the crowds with trays containing a smoking pot and a pile of vermillion powder. The trays were proffered to people who washed their faces with the smoke and applied a dot of powder to their forehead in return for a donation.

Our close up view gave us a great chance to observe the five young men performing the ceremonies, particularly the one closest to us who was ardent in his devotions.

We wandered the river banks frequently and always found plenty to capture our interest.

Wide steps make good cricket pitches, maybe if you hit the ball into the river you have to retrieve it.

In between our walking and chilling we of course ate well. We both love Indian food and it was no hardship to eat it at least twice each day. Most times we sampled the small restaurants close to our hotel but on two evenings we ventured to roof top restaurants and enjoyed the added bonus of watching the full moon shining on the Holy Ganges River. 


Anyway, its onward to Agra and the Taj Mahal now for more wonderful experiences.

On the Road


We are changing the way we will be sharing our stories and photos by separating our Travel Journal from our Blog Posts. In our Blog Posts we will be writing about particular experiences and places. They will be somewhat shorter than they have been and still include lots of photos. Our travel journal, which we have called “On the Road”, is now published and includes maps of different sections of our route as well as photos we take along the way. The “On the Road” Index Page can help you find particular sections you are interested in.

The first instalment of “On the Road” is available now and it covers our trip from the south of Ethiopia to South Africa. If you are interested in our “On the Road” travel journal then please follow the link to the Index Page and then jump to wherever you want to go to. We would love your feedback about whether it is easy to navigate around and any suggestions you may have.