We arrived in Tilpa yesterday afternoon and we are camped behind the levee as per the instructions on the sign near the pub which is about 100m away. We had a counter meal at the pub last night … steak was the safe option and it was pretty good.
We are doing part of the Darling River Run from Wilcannia to Bourke. The total length of this drive, from Walgett to Wentworth is 2740km but this section is only about 310km. Shortly after we left Wilcannia we dropped our tyre pressures down which gave us a much more comfortable ride on the gravel road, some of which had broken up a bit after the recent rains.
We’ll be camping tonight right next to the Darling River at Tilpa Wier just a few kilometres from here. It has recently started raining very lightly but if it carries on things might get a bit sticky!
The Darling River itself is about 1472 km long and is Australia’s third longest river. If you include its tributaries it is 2740km long. That doesn’t mean there’s a lot of water though.
The Darling River at Bourke stopped flowing over the weir in August 2018 and ceased flowing for 142 days which is the second longest period recorded since 1944. The longest recorded period from available records is 196 days from 20th September 2006.
Shallow-draught paddle steamers used to go all the way up to Bourke, which is only 106m above sea level and 1463km from the junction with the Murray River at Wentworth, but if the river level fell they would sometimes get stranded for up to a year.
We travelled about 200km yesterday from just south of Ivanhoe to Wilcannia and we are camped beside the Darling River on the edge of town. Big difference today was a couple of very low hills but nothing very exciting. More trees though and so many emus and unfortunately even more feral goats!
We asked around town to try and find out about the road conditions on the Darling River Run between here and Bourke and ended up getting some very solid information from a woman at the Darling Shire Council. We’ll take the West Tilpa Road as far as Tilpa and then cross the Darling River and travel to Bourke from there. Looking forward to some time in the bush if we can manage it. There’s a couple of old Outback Pubs at Tilpa and Louth that may get a visit.
We’ll be asking about road conditions as we go so things may change a bit but the next real town will be Bourke.
Here’s a shot from the banks of the Darling River.
It’s dead flat out here so when it rains, as it did recently, the water doesn’t really have anywhere to go. If the track gets too chewed up then just make another one.
Taken a short way off the Cobb Highway south of Ivanhoe. Great sunset last night and clear blue skies again this morning.
We are staying about 8km south of Ivanhoe on the Cobb Highway tonight. After over two weeks in a caravan park in Hay, NSW, while we got over flu/covid, we are very happy to be back on the road.
The delay to our travels does mean that a lot of the flooding after the recent rain event has subsided… which means that we can head to the north west of NSW. Not sure after that because the map is still showing a lot of closed roads in the south west of Queensland.
We saw a few emus today and a few mobs of sheep. Other than that the road was pretty quiet … and VERY flat.
This is our view east from our camp tonight. Looking forward to a good sunset.
Cheers for now.
Julie and Paul
The view from our camp, looking east of the Cobb Highway.
Footnote: We did stop posting in 2020 when Covid hit but, other than a few months we spent in lockdown in Geraldton we haven’t really stopped travelling. I will try and post a few short stories about what we have been doing at some stage. Almost all of that time has been spent in Australia … but not quite all. I had a short trip to South Africa last year to sell our Landcruiser and we have just got back from 5 months in a campervan in New Zealand so I’ll have to write that up for sure.
Sparkling sapphire sea, cloudless bright blue sky, deep brick red pindan cliffs, cream and orange sands, purple mulla mulla flowers and spectacular multi-coloured sunsets, this is the Kimberley coast in “winter”.
Our time on the Kimberley coast was spent hopping from one beautiful spot to another. First was Eighty Mile Beach. The Wallal Downs Station has established a very pleasant caravan park on part of their ocean frontage property and located behind a small dune to provide wind protection. Well-watered green lawns, plentiful trees for those who want shade or open areas for those that need solar power and viewing platforms to sit and enjoy the evening sunset spectacle. The beach is wide and the sand firm, great for long walks, and there are apparently plentiful fish to be caught from the shore or boats.
After the dust of the Pilbara the showers were also a treat and the washing machines very welcome. We planned to stay two nights but stayed three and could easily have extended further except some of our supplies were getting low and couldn’t be replenished before we reached Broome.
Next stop was Barn Hill, another station run caravan park. This park lacks the green grass so it is dustier and the sand on the beach is not as firm for walking but there are spectacular rock formations at the back of the beach not far from camp and also red pindan cliffs, multi-coloured rocks and fascinating rock pools along the shore.
This time we managed to leave after just two nights and then drove straight into Broome to replenish our supplies before back tracking to spend a couple of nights at the Broome Bird Observatory.
The Bird Observatory is one of our favourite places to stay in this area. It is located at the top of Roebuck Bay about 30 minutes drive from Broome. They do a lot of work in monitoring migratory birds, run tours and provide accommodation or camping. The camping area is small and always very quiet, only about ten sites and no power or generators. A Shade House serves as a camp kitchen, viewing point for watching birds and wallabies at a water point and as a general meeting place. Every evening a bird roll call is held when they record all birds seen or heard within 70 kilometres during the past 24 hours. It is always peaceful and friendly and just across the sandy road are the marvellous colours of Roebuck Bay. Aerial shots in the area are especially rewarding.
The Dampier Peninsula lies north of Broome and this was our next destination. There is free camping at a few places along the southern stretch of the peninsula and James Price Point is the most spectacular of these. Its also a favourite with Broome locals but as we arrive there mid week there are few others around and we find a great spot tucked back into the red pindan cliffs. There we escaped the strongest of the winds but could still gaze out over the amazing ocean in front of us. We could wander up the beach at low tide or take a dip in front of the camp at high tide but most of our time was happily spent enjoying the beauty and reading and relaxing.
We had four peaceful days before the weekend arrived and the area filled with locals out for the day or to camp for two or three nights. We spent most of a day trying to find another spot to camp further up the peninsula but most camp sites were closed due to covid and entry to all of the aboriginal communities is restricted to local residents or essential workers. The places which were open either didn’t appeal to us and were likely to be even busier than James Price Point so we back-tracked all the way and spent one night near Willie Creek and two nights at Quandong Point before returning to James Price Point for another two nights.
Finally it was time to return to Broome but this time we were treating ourselves and had booked into a very nice Air BnB. Seems our stay in Geraldton has made us soft. We had eight days in Broome and managed to eat out at some very nice places, enjoy some drinks at Matsos Brewery (my personal favourite was the Angry Wranger, a mix of ginger beer and chilli beer), visit the markets a few times and enjoy the food from the stalls, watch the Staircase to the Moon from Town Beach, visit Gantheaume Point when the full moon was setting just before sunrise and drive up Cable Beach a couple of times to watch the sunset with a picnic meal.
Inland Pilbara is hot, dry and dusty and there are very few towns or people. Places to get supplies or support are few and far between. The ground is rich in natural resources and mining companies are busy digging them up, transporting them to the coast and shipping them overseas. Most of the rivers are dry beds but their width show that when it does rain it is likely to flood. The far east of the region consists of deserts including the Great Sandy Desert, the Little Sandy Desert and The Tanami Desert. We just love it!
This trip we did a short (for us) loop around the top of Karajini to Auski, across country to the Newman to Marble Bar road, up to Nullagine and then east to Skull Springs, Running Waters and Carrawine Gorge and then back to Marble Bar and finally out to the coast near Eighty Mile Beach.
All the mining in the region makes travel both easier and more difficult. The easier part comes from the network of well maintained roads and the more difficult from the traffic along the roads. Wide loads are common as the mines shift their heavy equipment around. This load was so wide we had to pull well off the road to let it past.
On dirt roads huge semi trailers create clouds of dust which are dragged behind them. Visibility can be zero so it’s just a matter of pulling well off to the side of the road and waiting for the dust to settle minutes later. Once away from the mines the roads might be rougher but the scenery is always captivating.
We made an overnight stop on the road between Newman and Marble Bar on the banks of the Fortescue River. It was close to the road but the traffic was minimal after dark and it was a very pretty place for a stay.
Midway between Newman and Marble Bar is the tiny town of Nullagine where we stopped for a rest break before leaving the main road and heading east toward the deserts.
When we visited this area six years ago we briefly visited a place originally called Eel Springs but now known as Running Waters and had the place to ourselves. Ever since then Paul has wanted to return to take photos of the twisted paperbark trees surrounding this permanent spring. As a bonus the water is crystal clear and even slightly warm as one of the springs comes from the artesian basin.
Well word has certainly spread about this place, it was busy. We’d left the coast because school holidays had started but seems like lots of other West Aussies had the same idea. We managed to snare a nice spot right by the water, someone had just left, and hoped to stay for several days. We swam and relaxed and Paul was out at sunset and sunrise and was pretty happy with his shots.
Unfortunately on our second day we acquired close neighbours who had a taste for heavy metal music and we decided to move on the next morning. After backtracking a little we turned off the road toward a camping spot near the Davis River. The side track was easy to find, it was marked by some animal skulls on a post so naturally the alternate name for the camp is Skull Springs. It was much quieter here, just one camp set up by the water and we decided to leave them to their peace and and we set up camp above the river bed in an open spot with scattered white gums around.
Our final stop in this area was at Carrawine Gorge, another favourite from our visit six years ago. That time we stopped for nine nights but this time the increased numbers of campers, the new vegetation along the water which impeded the views and the copious amounts of dust which billowed through many of the prime sites anytime a car drove past combined to shorten or stay to just two nights. It was still pleasant and the bird life was lovely but it was time to head for the coast and to clean up some of the accumulated dust.
We love all of the Pilbara region of Western Australia and different parts have different treasures but the jewel of the region has to to be Karajini National Park. We’ve visited the park several times before but it’s a place you can visit time and time again to enjoy the wonderful country, the colours, the mountains and the deep gorges.
This is an ancient land; mountain ranges have weathered down and while they are still called mountains, Mount Bruce, Mount Sheila, Mount Nameless and Mount Meharry, in other younger countries they would simply be called hills.
Precipitation doesn’t occur very often but when it rains it pours. It’s a dry country now but there are still permanent water sources and the flat red earth is cut by deep gorges. From the top you can peer down into deep canyons to see waterfalls and rock pools. Several walking trails take you down into subterranean gorges. Our last visit was nearly six years ago and while Paul still tackled some of the difficult trails on this trip I lowered the bar and settled for moderate walks (up to class 4).
The first gorge we visited this trip was Kalamina Gorge. It’s one of the most accessible gorges and while not as dramatic as some we think it is possibly the prettiest gorge with some lovely little falls and reflecting rock pools. It’s in the middle of the park and on previous visits it’s been very quiet but word of its charm seems to have got out as the car park was nearly full when we arrived. We still managed to have plenty of quiet times to enjoy the beauty as most other visitors walked the gorge, possibly had a dip, and then left.
From Kalamina Gorge we travelled to our first camp at the national park campground near Dales Gorge where we stayed for three nights. The easiest entry into Dales Gorge is via a steep staircase down to Fortescue Falls. There were quite a few swimmers in the pool below the falls.
From Fortescue Falls it is a short further walk to the idyllic Fern Pool.
Fern Pool, Dales Gorge, Karajini National Park, WA
The other entry into the gorge is via a steep path including a short ladder near Circular Pool. On our first evening we took a very pleasant walk along the rim. The late afternoon light displayed the beauty of the country and the wildflowers were a delight.
Circular Pool was closed due to a recent rock slide but the path through the gorge was still open and was a great walk on the next day.
About 50 km west of Dales Gorge several gorges meet and provide some of the most spectacular scenery in the park. We moved camp to best appreciate these places and spent the next three nights at the Karijini Eco Retreat. We stopped to enjoy the view at the lookout over Joffre Gorge and Paul returned there for some pre sunrise photography the next morning,
Joffre Gorge, Karijini NP, WA
The landscape and vegetation in this region is amazing and we never tire of it, especially when the sun is just rising or getting low and providing extra drama.
Weano Gorge with Handrail Pool at the end of the accessible area provides amazing rich colours
Another amazing gorge to visit is Hancock Gorge and at the end of a very tricky walk you reach the magical Kermits Pool where light bounces off red and gold walls to create magical waterfalls.
Before leaving Karijini we had one more stop. Hammersley Gorge is on the western edge of the park and has some amazing rock formations we have photographed in the past, This time we hoped to see the Spa Pool, a spot we had missed on previous visits. We reached the bottom of the gorge not long past sunrise and Paul began the scramble up the gorge toward the spa. I decided it was too tricky for me and picked my way up the rocky sides to a spot above the spa. From there I could see we had picked the wrong time of the day to visit as it was half in deep shade and half in strong sun.
Paul had a far more difficult trek to reach a spot where he made the same conclusion. Guess you can’t win them all. Anyway Paul managed a lovely shot of one of the small water falls and I enjoyed the amazing curves in the rocks.
If you have never been to Karijini you should put it on your bucket list and if you’ve only been once or twice or for just a short time it is certainly worth a return visit.
Ningaloo Reef in Cape Range National Park, Western Australia
Ningaloo Reef should be on the must visit list for everybody travelling in Australia. It stretches for more than 200 kilometres down the west coast of the continent from the North West Cape above Exmouth to Red Bluff not far north of Carnarvon. Much of it is a marine park and there are plentiful and beautiful fish and corals which can be seen by snorkelling straight off the beach.
We’ve visited the reef, staying in the Cape Range National Park, on every previous visit to the west and this year was no exception. Bookings in the park can be hard to get, especially in the prime season from mid May when the Whale Sharks arrive until late September when the temperatures and the winds are both rising. Apart from odd days here and there the campsites are usually filled as soon as bookings open 6 months in advance. This year all bookings were cancelled when national parks closed when the covid restrictions were enforced and then reopened when the restrictions were eased. We were lucky, and quick, enough to get a two week booking in a small camp ground near two of the prime snorkelling spots.
On the afternoon before our booking commences we reach the eastern side of the national park and took the road up to the top of the range next to Charles Knife Canyon. There’s no camping allowed but we find a spot to stop where we can set up late and pack up early and Paul can take some sunset and sunrise photos.
After the photos were taken we stopped in Exmouth to make sure we had enough supplies for two weeks and our gas and water were full then drove around to the coast on the western side of the range. We set up camp on our site in North Mandu Camp, taking the camper of the back of the Ute and putting out our big awning and all our mats and got ready to enjoy two weeks of paradise. The weather was warm to hot, winds variable but only ranging from calm to moderate, and only a couple of days with clouds.
Days were spent snorkelling, swimming, walking in Yardie Gorge and relaxing in camp. The Yardie Gorge walk is not terribly long or difficult with only a couple of slightly tricky descents into gullies and there are some lovely views along the way and at the end. Paul also visited Pilgramunna Gorge at sunset one evening.
The beach in front of our camp was rocky and there was a southerly drift so our favourite swimming spots were Sandy Bay about 10 km south or Turquoise Bay a few km north. Turquoise Bay is also one of the prime snorkelling spots with either a relaxing swim and snorkel in the quiet bay or a snorkel on the other side of the point where the current allows you to drift over wonderful corals and colourful fish.
The best snorkelling however was at Oyster Stacks. These are only about a kilometre north of our camp and there is a significant southerly drift so we could walk up the beach over the rocks and enter the water and just drift back to camp. We had some days of great visibility and the coral is truly remarkable. It’s a fish sanctuary zone and they are prolific with amazing colours and shapes. We also spotted several rays and a turtle.
After our wonderful days we would usually sit at the top of the beach to watch the sun set into the ocean and chat with the other campers. Truly paradise.
Sunset from the top of North Mandu Beach, Cape Range National Park
If you travel in outback Australia the red dirt, which blankets much of the interior of this country, invades your vehicle and, no matter how well you clean your car, you will still be finding pockets of red tucked into crevices and hinges for years to come. The red dirt settles into the blood and soul of some people and I’m happy to be one of them.
For many years I relished city and urban life then grew to love living surrounded by bush or near the ocean. I still love the bush and the beach and the occasional visit to the big smoke but if I’m away from the red dirt for too long I get a yearning to return.
Winter is the easiest time to travel in the outback when temperatures are more comfortable. Our last few winters have been spent either overseas or on the east coast so as covid restrictions eased and we were allowed to travel within Western Australia my first request was to head inland, camp in the bush and enjoy a good campfire, and see some of that red, red dirt.
Kennedy Range National Park is a couple of hundred kilometres inland of Carnarvon on the west coast of Australia. Rather than follow the highway up from Geraldton where we had spent the covid lockdown period we drove inland and travelled for two days along mainly dirt roads through the tiny settlements of Murchison and Gascoyne Junction. Traffic was scarce and it was great to be out of town and away from civilisation.
We found a pleasant overnight spot to camp at Bilung Pool. It’s a permanent water hole which was used by the early settlers and before that by generations of Aboriginals. Paul enjoyed catching the late afternoon and early morning light on the magnificent white gums at the edge of the pool.
We reached Kennedy Range by the middle of the next day and found several other groups in the Temple Gorge camp ground. The range is an eroded plateau and the camp and most walks are at the base of spectacular cliffs that rise 100m above the plains. The best way to appreciate the range is from the air and Paul flew the drone early in the morning, well away from camp, and captured some of the beauty.
Some walks enter the gorges and you pick your way through the rocks and admire the formations and patterns in the gorge walls. Others take you along the face of the escarpment and past huge rocks which have fallen in years past. A Wedge Tail Eagle rode the thermal currents above us.
There are no individual fire pits at the campsites but a large communal fire was a great place to cook dinner and to sit and chat with other campers each evening. After months of travel restrictions everyone was happy to be back in the bush and the conversations, as always, turned to previous adventures and experiences and future plans.
Travel restrictions are lifting and we’re ready to give up our life of luxury and get back on the road. In fact we probably need to as we’ve taken advantage of an excellent kitchen and good supermarkets to try out lots of recipes. Not that we rough it too much when we’re travelling anyway.
We have loved watching the ocean every day and sunsets have been different every evening. Paul made a short video of these for you to watch.
We have ventured out very little except for grocery shopping etc but we made it as far as Kalbarri when the travel restrictions eased in WA. Paul got some fantastic drone footage over Lake Hutt. From the ground the lake is pink but from above the light reflects differently and chemicals and algae in the water make stark contrasts in colour.
We then spent the night at Lucky Bay campground and continued toward Kalbarri the next morning stopping at some of the amazing viewpoints in the Kalbarri National Park.
A lot of our time has been spent on our computers. Paul has produced some amazing images, entered a couple of competitions and also spent a lot of time sorting through photos to update his photography web site. He has refined the content of his portfolio to contain the images he is most proud of. The ones on display will be rotated regularly so it will be worth revisiting it every month. As well there is a section of our travel photos. There are thousands and I have been busy sorting these and trying to get names and captions on them. Most are done, hopefully all will be soon. I really recommend you follow the link to whitefellawalkabout.com and bookmark it so you can keep an eye on it. My favourite way of viewing the travel photos is to select the first image in a collection (country or state) then use the full screen slide show option.
I’ve also been looking back through the posts we have written about our travels and decided there had to be a better way to read about particular countries or times. So I’ve added a tab to this site “Where Have We Been?” That tab will take you to an index to our posts about our travels in Australia, Africa or Asia or to the travel photos for each continent on Whitefella Walkabout Photography. I’d love to hear if you use these links and if you find them useful or interesting.
Anyway, where to next? We’ll be leaving on Tuesday of next week (9th June) and from here our initial plan is to travel up to Exmouth via the inland road and Kennedy Range National Park. Staying right on the ocean has been terrific but it will be great to see some red dirt, camp in the bush and take some interesting walks in the national park. Then we’ll head back to the ocean to spend two weeks at Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Reef for lots of snorkelling. Karajini and Carrawine Gorge in the Pilbara are next on our agenda and by then hopefully we’ll be allowed to enter the Kimberleys.
We won’t even try to guess what we’ll be doing after that. Of course it depends if borders keep gradually opening up and we have lots of options. So many places to go, people to meet, things to do and of course photos to take.
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